There are travel experiences that stick with you — and then there are the ones that etch themselves deep into your memory, resurfacing whenever you close your eyes. Swimming with wild dolphins in Mozambique belongs firmly in the latter category.
I’d been out once before to swim with dolphins in Ponta do Ouro, following pods that danced at the surface but i never swam in their world. I remember watching spinner dolphins leap and twist as if performing acrobatics, spotted dolphins surfing along the side of the boat and humpback whales crashing back into the sea in a spray of white water. Incredible, yes — but I never got into the water with the dolphins. Maybe this time I would be lucky.
Meeting Dolphin Encountours
Our adventure began at Dolphin Encountours Research Centre, led by Angie Gullan, who has spent decades studying the bottlenose dolphins of southern Mozambique. Angie is more than just a guide — she’s a guardian of these animals, and she insists that encounters must be ethical and respectful.
She explained that her program began in the mid-1990s, after she discovered that bottlenose dolphins were resident in the bays around Ponta do Ouro. While “swimming with dolphins” was becoming a global trend at the time, many places allowed intrusive or harmful practices. Angie set out to do things differently. Her project was built on scientific research, ethical guidelines, and a deep respect for the dolphins themselves. She even developed a Code of Conduct and established the DolphinCare Data Bank, where data and imagery are meticulously stored to monitor populations, calf survival, and the impact of tourism.
The result? A program that gives guests like me the privilege of being in the water with dolphins — but only when the dolphins choose to interact.
A False Start and an Early Morning
On our first day, we arrived late in the morning. Angie greeted us with a shrug and an apologetic smile. “No dolphins today,” she said. In fact, she hadn’t seen them that morning, or on the last two trips. She suggested we come back the following day, early — very early.
So, we agreed to a 6 am start, which meant a 5 am wake-up and a bumpy 45-minute 4×4 drive through deep sand. Even in sunny Mozambique, that kind of alarm call is brutal — especially when paired with a few drinks the night before. But somehow, the excitement kept me going (that, and a mission to eat my body weight in garlic prawns over the 4 days I was in Mozambique).
Into the Rough Sea
The next morning, bleary-eyed but buzzing, we gathered on the beach. The sea was rough, very rough, and just getting into the inflatable RIB boat was an adventure in itself. Smaller passengers were hauled in first, while the rest of us scrambled up in a decidedly ungraceful fashion. But once we were in, nobody cared.
At first, the ride was easy as we hugged the coastline, but as soon as we turned out to sea, the waves hit us. The water looked dark, almost black, and I’ll admit — a part of me wondered if I really wanted to jump into it. The waves looked quite daunting.
But then, something magical distracted us: humpback whales. In the distance, their tails slapped the surface, sending up plumes of white spray. One after another, they breached, their enormous bodies arcing through the air and crashing back into the sea. It was like watching fireworks, only better — a natural spectacle so big it made you forget about everything else.
Dolphins on the Horizon
Then, the moment we had been waiting for. Dolphins.
Angie’s excitement was contagious. She hadn’t seen them for days, and now here they were, cutting through the waves. The boat engine fell silent, masks and fins went on, and we slipped into the water.
“Follow Angie,” our skipper called out. “The dolphins know her.”
Face to Face
What happened next is hard to put into words. One moment, I was floating nervously on the surface, and the next, a dolphin swam straight towards me. At the last second, it veered away, and I squeaked into my snorkel in surprise. More dolphins appeared, circling, darting underneath, rolling on their backs to show off their dappled bellies.
It was playful. Joyful. Surreal.
I tried to keep my distance — you’re not allowed to touch the dolphins — but of course, they were far more adept in the water than I could ever be. They swooped in close, then disappeared, only to reappear from another angle. At one point, I lifted my head above water and looked around: people floated silently, snorkels up, while dolphins looped around them like a living carousel.
And the sound! Through the water, I could hear their squeaks and clicks — communication unfolding in a language we can only marvel at.
Ethical Encounters
What struck me most was that these dolphins wanted to be there. Angie made sure of it. She never lets people into the water if the dolphins are feeding or resting. These encounters only happen when the dolphins are curious and playful — on their terms. It felt as if we were playing granny’s’ footsteps. It is hard not to anthropomorphise, but with their smily faces and zoomy behaviour, I really did think they wanted to play with us.
That made all the difference. It wasn’t about chasing dolphins or forcing an experience; it was about being invited into their world. And that felt extraordinary.
Reluctant Goodbyes
After what felt like a timeless blur of play and awe, the dolphins swam off into the blue. One by one, people climbed back into the boat, buzzing with excitement. I stayed in the water as long as I could, reluctant to let the moment end. There I am, still in the water swimming with dolphins!
Back on board, we all wore enormous grins — the kind you can’t fake, the kind you can’t hide. Angie looked just as thrilled as we were. There were huge smiles all round.
By the time we reached shore, the adrenaline was still rushing. Breakfast was waiting, and I celebrated the morning with a large rum and coke and yet another helping of garlic prawns. Honestly, I don’t think I’ve ever tasted prawns so good. Maybe it was the sea air. Maybe it was the dolphins.
A Memory That Lasts
Swimming with dolphins in Ponta do Ouro wasn’t just a tick on the bucket list. It was one of those rare experiences that remind you how extraordinary the natural world is — and how lucky we are to share it.
If you ever find yourself in Mozambique, I can’t recommend it enough: visit Dolphin Encountours in Ponta do Ouro. Go with patience, an open heart, and respect for the dolphins. If they choose to let you into their world, you’ll never forget it. The proof is below, I am swimming with dolphins.
